Aksum Cafe: A Refreshing Culinary Experience
May 31st, 2022
Authored and Edited by Nina Wilson and Dynisha Murray
Pictured from bottom to top: The Smoked Salmon Eggs Benny ($26), Spiced Shrimp and Grits ($30), and Blueberry Lemon Pancakes ($20). Courtesy of the Brunch Besties.
In the beginning of February, me and Dynisha ventured into the West Philadelphia neighborhood of Cedar Park. To honor Black History Month, we made a commitment to review only black owned restaurants. The first restaurant on our list was Aksum Cafe located at 4630 Baltimore Ave, Philadelphia, PA 19143.
Aksum was initially founded by Seba Tedla, who is the founder and present owner of Booker’s Restaurant and Bar. However due to irreconcilable differences between Tedla and her landlord, (Philadelphia Inquirer) the restaurant was sold and is presently owned by John Neufville (KYW Newsradio). Aksum’s menu offers a variety of Middle Eastern and North African dishes, as well as a Brunch menu that consists of southern influences. In regards to Aksum’s present owner, he is a bit of a mystery. We struggled to find any information about him online, or his background prior to owning Aksum.
When we arrived at the cafe, there was a serene vibe to the environment. It was around midday on a Saturday and it was not crowded as one might expect. The entire front facade was composed of floor to ceiling windows, the interior walls were painted a pale blue , and the entire restaurant was fitted with dark brown seating. The ceilings were vaulted which led to an atmosphere that felt open, airy, but intimate all at once. We were asked to provide ID, proof of vaccination, and to confirm our reservation, before we were escorted to our seats. There was only one server who attended to everyone in the restaurant. She was communicative, polite, and friendly, which compensated for the lack of waitstaff.
We ordered The Smoked Salmon Eggs Benny ($26), Blueberry Lemon Pancakes ($20), and Spiced Shrimp and Grits ($30). We didn’t have high expectations when we initially ordered everything but we were blown away once we began to dig in.
Blueberry Lemon Pancakes
Pictured from above: Blueberry Lemon Pancakes ($20). Courtesy of the Brunch Besties.
We will start with the Blueberry Lemon Pancakes which the menu described as “double stack pancakes, warm syrup, and a side of turkey sausage.” The pancakes were warm and fluffy, and not dense. They had a slight crust to them, which added additional texture to the dish. They also had a delicate flavor with subtle notes of vanilla that were balanced with the fresh blueberries inside. The chef infused the lemon into the butter, which we felt was a smart move from a culinary standpoint. However the taste of the lemon was subtle, which was okay, but we wanted a stronger note of lemon in the dish. Dynisha felt that the turkey sausage patties were a bit dry. But overall, we really enjoyed the dish and gave it 4 out of 5 stars.
Smoked Salmon Eggs Benny
Pictured above: The Smoked Salmon Eggs Benny ($26). Courtesy of the Brunch Besties.
Next, we will talk about The Smoked Salmon Eggs Benny. Per the menu, the dish is described as having “ smoked salmon, hollandaise sauce, two poached eggs, on an English muffin along with a side of hash browns.” The smoked salmon was a bit salty, but it balanced well with the rest of the dish. The eggs were poached perfectly. The hollandaise sauce was light and flavorful. The hashbrowns that came with the dish were perfectly seasoned and crisp. When we have ordered hash browns in the past, they have felt like an unwanted child in most dishes either unseasoned or unforgettable. However, these potatoes were far from that. Dynisha is not a fan of eggs benedict, but she thoroughly enjoyed this dish. So in closing, due to the near perfect execution and how well balanced the dish was, we rated it 5 out of 5 stars. It is a must get item if you decide to go to Aksum.
Spiced Shrimp and Grits
Pictured above: Spiced Shrimp and Grits ($30). Courtesy of the Brunch Besties.
Lastly, let's talk about the Spiced Shrimp and Grits. I have to admit, that I am not a fan of grits. When I have had them, they are either cakey or too “gritty” for my taste. However, this dish changed my mind about grits in general. They had a subtle gritty texture but were smooth and creamy, which made them taste very light. The grits were well seasoned, and the shrimp etouffee that accompanied the dish was perfectly executed. The Etoufee had a slightly spicy but warm flavor. Overall, we also gave this dish 5 out of 5 stars, and would say this is another “Must get” menu item.
Final Thoughts
In closing, Aksum Cafe is a quiet gem. The service was pretty good considering that there was only one server. The chef personally came out and checked on us to make sure that we enjoyed our food, and the food and atmosphere were sublime. As stated before, they also offer lunch and dinner offerings, so we are curious to go back for those menus. However, if they are anything like the brunch we had, then we are positive it will be delicious. If you are in the area, please go check out Aksum Cafe. It will be a culinary experience that you will not forget.
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XOXO,
The Brunch Besties